From Johann Josef to Sebastian to Manfred--and now, to Katharina--the hereditary line of Prüms at this estate is straight and strong. Why is J.J. Prüm still the most famous name in German wine after a hundred years? Partly because their light and racy wines epitomize the region, partly because they possess several incredible vineyard sites and an extraordinary percentage of ungrafted vines within them, which links them to an historic era of German winegrowing... and honestly, it's partly showbiz. Few humans alive have ever seen the cellar at J.J. Prüm, or Manfred's mysterious brother Wolfgang who toils down there. The mystery is compounded at the epic dinners that Manfred and his daughter Katharina host for visitors, during which Manfred disappears for up to 20 minutes rummaging around for the "perfect" bottle to pour, which is invariably old and invariably served blind. Who can resist such a presentation? The 33.5 acre estate produces about 13,000 cases annually. The wines are feather-light, never over-extracted, low in alcohol, transparent as glass, and petrolly as hell in those first 15 years or so; after that, they really get going. Prüm is not tiny, they're not a thousand years old, and they're not doctrinaire about vinification; they are simply the quintessential Mosel estate and the benchmark for all German wine. Amen. The vineyards: Wehlener Sonnenuhr (directly across the river from the house): pure, weathered Devon slate; quite stony. This is often considered Prüm's premier site, and the wines from here are the longest lived. Graacher Himmelreich: very deep soils (great water maintenance); weathered Devon slate with higher clay content and pockets of blue slate. Wines are usually approachable sooner than Sonnenuhr. Zeltinger Sonnenuhr: Prüm owns the filet parcel here, adjacent to Wehlener Sonnenuhr. Delicate wines; insiders' choice. Bernkasteler Badstube: "Our Saar vineyard," the Prüms call it.; weathered Devon slate, with blue slate and traces of loam. Salty, subtle wines. A bit of history about JJPrum: www.pruemwein.de The producers website: www.jjpruem.com
Wine Spectator 96 "This is really singing. Floral, apricot and mineral notes burst from the glass, and the wine is silky and impeccably balanced. Very concentrated,
Wine Spectator 92 "Compact and filled with sleek flavors of fresh herbs, stone and celery salt, presenting a firm edge to the acidity. Chamomile and lemon
Wine Spectator 93 "Broad-textured, with snappy flavors of green apple, grapefruit and plum, supported by fresh acidity. Chamomile and blood orange notes flood the lithe finish.
Wine Spectator 95 Give this some air if you must drink it now, but better to wait for a decade or so. Seductive guava and mango
Wine & Spirits 95 The first sip of this wine was like getting a smack for having opened it so soon. The acidity is sharp and
Mosel Fine Wines 92 This 2017er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett offers a superbly floral nose complemented by vineyard peach, almond cream, smoke, minty herbs, pear and cassis.
Wine Enthusiast 94 Pristine aromas of lemon and lime introduce this crystalline spätlese. It’s lip-smackingly sweet, marked by concentrated honeysuckle and hibiscus flavors. Electric grapefruit acidity
Mosel Fine Wines 93 This 2017er Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese is still delicately reduced at first before it starts to reveal its gorgeous nose of almond cream,
Wine Advocate 93 The 2017 Bernkasteler Badstube Spätlese (AP 04 17) is clear and precise in its aromatic bouquet that delivers white stone fruit as well
Wine Enthusiast 95 Whiffs of smoke and crushed earth blow off quickly with aeration to reveal succulent white-peach, yellow-cherry and grapefruit tones. Its unabashedly fresh and
Wine Spectator 92 "A racy, tensile version whose peach, apple, and lime flavors are stretched tight along its axis. Delicate, vibrant, and mouthwatering on the long
Wine Spectator 95 "This offers a gorgeous array of delicate, floral-tinged green pear, peach and apple flavors that are explosively juicy and fruity-tasting, with a caressing
Wine Spectator 94 "A savory and delicate style, with well-integrated passion fruit, apple compote and Key lime pie flavors. Zesty acidity and notes of chive and
Wine Spectator 93 "This white is very fresh and juicy, displaying focused apple pastry and pear tart flavors supported by mouthwatering acidity. Lemon curd and chamomile
Wine Spectator 95 "Vivid and pure-tasting, with a well-structured array of mineral, peach, citrus and savory spice notes that are tightly wound. Still, this is quite
Wine Spectator 91 "The floral, peach and chive aromas and flavors need some coaxing to emerge in this lacy, delicate Riesling. Balanced and long. Best
Wine Spectator 92 "Floral and smoke aromas give way to peach, apple and lime flavors in this delicate, silky Riesling. All is well-integrated with the bright
Wine Spectator 94 "Pungent aromas of slate and flowers give way to peach and lime in this unevolved Riesling. The texture is supersilky, with great harmony
Wine Spectator 93 "Aromatic, offering smoke, slate, peach and floral aromas and picking up a lime accent on the palate. Lighter than air, with a silky
Staff Picks
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnuneur Riesling Auslese Gold Kap 2006 375ml (half bottles) Wine Spectator 93 "A delicious auslese, revealing a fleeting range of lime, slate and
Wine Spectator 95 "Aromas of rose, slate and smoke segue into lime and peach flavors in this elegant, stately white. It's crisp and trans-parent, with precise
Wine Spectator 93 "Reduced in aroma, this needs air, yet the purity and silky texture are beautiful. Apricot, lime, slate and vanilla pastry flavors weave throughout
Stephen Tanzer 90 "Pale, green-tinged yellow. Fresh bouquet of bosc pear, white cherry and apple blossom. Delicately sweet on the palate, offering a nice interplay of
JJ Prum Graacher Himmelrich Riesling Ausele Gold Kap 2006 Wine Spectator 95 "A kaleidoscope of orchard fruit, with a squeeze of lime served on a wet slate
**HALF BOTTLE** Wine Spectator 95 "Concentrated and pure, this boasts apricot, peach, lime sorbet and honey flavors wrapped in a velvety texture. Lush and elegant at the