Giorgio Conterno of Paolo Conterno blew our minds with his brilliant, classically styled expressions of the Ginestra cru of Monforte d'Alba, which is considered by many to be one the finest vineyards in the entire Barolo appellation. Its relatively high elevation of 300-350 meters above sea level combine with the dense, clay-heavy Helvetian soil to create masterpiece wines with dark colors, brooding tannins and incredible aromatics. Paolo's neighbors are well known to our market – Clerico, Conterno-Fantino, Elio Grasso--but now it's time for this Conterno to step onto the stage.
Like most MSW estates, Conterno is a family operation with a long history of great winemaking. Paolo Conterno founded Casa della Ginestra in 1886 and was one of the first growers to sell barrels of wine directly to consumers from the cellar. By the time negociants were dominating the market in the mid-20th century, Paolo already had a loyal following of connoisseurs demanding his wines.
The estate has always preferred classically styled wines--there are barriques on property, but are only used when there's too much wine to fill his 35 hectoliter casks. We first heard about this estate through Marc de Grazia: one of Domenico Clerico's trusted disciples, Massimo Conterno (no relation), had moved there in 2004 to give Giorgio Conterno a hand in winemaking. The results are what's in stock today: classically-styled examples of Ginestra's excellence with laser pure perfumes, great balance, approachability AND long potential for aging.
Wine Advocate 93 "The 2009 Barolo Riva del Bric delivers latitude and grip with impeccable precision and long, polished tannins that help fuel persistency. Dried mint,
James Suckling 97 "This is fabulous Barolo with burnt orange, blackberry, meat, earth, and fresh herb. Full-bodied, round and velvety. So flavorful and crazy. Drink now.
Wine Spectator 94 "Cherry and raspberry fruit are augmented by licorice and tobacco notes in this supple, yet firmly structured, red. This is balanced and lingers
Wine Spectator 95 "Though intense, this is elegant and vibrant, exhibiting pure cherry, raspberry and tobacco aromas and flavors. Its tannins are very well-integrated. The lingering
Wine Advocate 94 "“The 2007 Barolo Ginestra is soft, plush and incredibly inviting. It shows plenty of textural richness and finesse to balance the firm Ginestra
Wine Advocate 94 "The 2010 Barolo Ginestra is a territory-driven wine that reflects all of the characteristics associated with the Ginestra cru. It shows elegant mineral
James Suckling 95 "Extremely perfumed and polished with cherry, mineral, shell and raspberry character. Full body ultra-fine tannins and a long, crisp finish. Burnt lemon aftertaste
Wine Spectator 93 "A muscular style, but not rustic, offering cherry, leather, eucalyptus and cigar box aromas and flavors. Balanced and expressive, with a fluid profile
Wine Advocate 92 "Riva del Bric is a trademarked name that belongs to Paolo Conterno. It is not an official vineyard cru recognized by the Barolo
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