Wine Advocate 93
"Tasted in a lineup of 18 Mosel Kabinett wines in June 2019, Andrea and Barbara Adam's 2018 Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett is very reductive yet super clear and precise on the untamed or stinky "sponti" nose. The palate is mouthfilling, fresh and piquant, very pure and tight yet lush and firmly structured on the finish. The wine has gorgeous grip and tension, which give a mouthwatering finish. Tasted in June 2019."
The Grand Cru Hofberg is one of the greatest Mosel vineyards. In 1868 the vineyards of this hill were classified by the Prussians as an extraordinary place to make great Rieslings. The main part of the vineyards in our region are situated on the Mosel river. But not the Hofberg. It`s a lovely quiet side-valley on the Dhron river with weathered Devonian slate in mixture with quartzite. Riesling vines are today 30 to 65 years old and some are still ungrafted.
A perfect place to vinify remarkable wines.,Even at a young age, the wines often show a striking exotic fruit, subtle spice, wild slate aromas and a finesse of acidity.
The vineyards for this wine are located deep in the Dhron valley. Sun comes out late in the morning and settles early. Perfect microclimate for our Hofberg Kabinett! The grapes from the 30 year old vines from this part of the Hofberg are fermented spontaneously in big stainless steel tanks.
Mosel elegancy at its best! Slate meets delicate fruit. With its chilly climate, the valley is perfect for our Kabinett and gifts us with a fresh and fruity, really salty yet linear wine.
There is however a good underlying structure of acidity which only waits for mingling into the fruity structure of this impressive Kabinett at maturity! – Mosel Fine Wines by Jean Fisch and David Rayer
Adam DhronView all from Adam Dhron
Weingut A.J. Adam
Just south of Piesport in a small side valley lies the steep, south-facing vineyards of Dhron, named for a tributary of the Mosel and virtually unknown. The long-time growers in Dhron have aged and the younger generation seems unwilling to farm the extremely steep, weathered slate slopes here. Not so with Andreas Adam, who in 2000, after completing school in Geisenheim and after a stint at Heymann-Löwenstein, resurrected his family's estate and now farms 3.8 hectares in Dhron as well as Piesport. In the Hofberg vineyard, Dhron's lone Erste Lage of gray-blue slate and iron oxide, land is a fraction of the cost of lesser sights nearby, where müller-thurgau is planted extensively on fertile ground and growers much prefer to use the highly profitable grosslage name 'Michelsberg.' Adam's plots in the Hofberg are spread along the hillside, with 2 parcels planted in the early 1950's. These wines might more resemble Saar wines rather than nearby Piesport, as they are extremely steep, high in altitude, and kept perpetually cool from the air descending from the Hunsrück Mts along the Dhron river. Andreas also has several parcels in the Goldtröpfchen, including a plot on ancient terraces called the Layschen, meaning 'small slate' for its crumbling, decomposing stones.
Due to his estate's tiny size, it is virtually impossible to farm organically, though Andreas farms as close to nature as possible. Vines are trained using the single post system, traditional in the Mosel for training on steep inclines, and compost is used from his relatives' farm in the Hunsrück Mountains to fertilize the vineyards.
Andreas hand sorts after harvest, utilizes indigenous yeasts and a combination of different sized stainless steel, fuder, and halbfuder casks for fermentation. There are no additions of any kind: no cultured yeast, no süssreserve. All wines are bottled under cork, and though Andreas is not a member of the VDP, he designates his Erste Lagen bottlings of Goldtröpfchen and Hofberg with a GG on the label and ferments these dry when vintages allow. His collection also includes 'village' wines: labeled Dhroner Riesling and all sourced from the Hofberg, as well as Piesporter which is sourced entirely from his red slate parcel in the Goldtröpfchen; as well, pradikät designate wines are produced . Andreas says of his philosophy: "I sustain my vineyards by intensive soil work to bring out the essential nutrients up from the primary rock, the natural compost of a vineyard. This completion of the bond between elemental soil and the work of the vintner is another piece in the puzzle of terroir... I think in Germany we see terroir as a unity of grape, climate, soil, and the mentality of the person who works the vineyard. But the essence of that mentality is a knowledge that the geology of his terrain indeed creates the flavors in the grapes which grow there."
•Vineyard area: 3.7 hectares
•Annual production: 1,250 cases
Dhron – Hofberg (weathered Devonian slate, clay)
Piesport – Goldtropfen (blue slate, clay, sandstone)