D.O. Getariako Txakolina
100 Hondarrabi Zuri
Terroir: Rocky ysch with Limestone, calcareous clays and some sand
AGRICULTURE: Vines are traditionally trained high; grape set is usually about two meters above the root on pergolas. Wild yeast fermentation. Practicing organic agriculture.
VINICULTURE: Destemming. Stainless steel for fermentation. A certain amount of time on the lees with no batonage employed helps to absorb the carbon dioxide; the remainder of which gives the wine its natural petaillance.
In Txakolina Getariako, the value of the vines has never been in question. Back in 1937 during the General Meeting of the Gipuzkoa Guild held in Getaria, the rst Bylaws of the province were approved, and item 18 threatened anyone who destroyed the vines with the death penalty. Strict to say the least.
During the 16th and 17th centuries the vineyards developed, and since 1509 at least one guild of grapevine pruners (Podavines, 400 members) has been operating in Donostia-San Sebastians. It was in the 18th century that the moment of greatest local protectionism arrived, not so much to protect the vine growers but to protect the province from the tax levied on the wine brought into Gipuzkoa. This protectionism notwithstanding, the vineyards in the east of Gipuzkoa disappeared little by little, and by the 19th century only the vineyards of Zarautz, Getaria, Zumaia, Deba and Mutrikuabout 250 ha, were thriving. The end of the 19th century saw a deep crisis in the Txakoli vineyards for various reasons: the gradual repealing of the protectionist laws, the entry of foreign wines, and the outbreak of successive blights and diseases, like phylloxera and mildew.
The 20th century was marked by survival, and by the 1980s, there were only 21 ha of vineyards (INDO 1982 land registry)3 of which were located in Zarautz and the rest in Getaria; they were small vineyards managed by a few vine growers. Together they embarked on the task to renew the sector, in terms of both vineyards and wineries, with a view to becoming ofcially recognized through the Designation of Origin, which was nally obtained in 1989.
The name Flysch was introduced in geologic literature by the Swiss geologist Bernhard Studer in 1827. Studer used the term to describetypical alternations of sandstone and shale in the foreland of the Alps. The name comes from the German word iessen, which means to ow, because Studer thought ysch was deposited by rivers. The insight that ysch is actually a deep marine sediment typical for a particular plate tectonic setting came only much later.
A river of Flysch? I'm all for it. Let it ow... We'll deal the birth of mountains later. Roots go deep. And the Flysch runs deeper.
The Gorosti family has been at this grape growing thing for 4 generations, but the winery is relatively new, having opened it's door in 2011. Their youngest vineyards of Hondarribi Zuri were planted as recently as 2008 in an area better known as the 'Basque Coast Geopark' located in Elorriaga, on the coast, between the small cities Itziar-Deba and Zumaia, or more generally, between Bilbao and San Sebastian. The region's climate is very humid, caused by the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. Temperatures rarely go beyond 65F (18.7C). Coupled with the high rainfall, the vineyards are never overripe and the characteristic wine styles that the entire region is famous for are light, dry, fruity and highly acidic. The grapes never attain high must weight in this cool climate and naturally,the resulting wines have low alcohol. The local wine laws stipulate that the minimum alcohol content must be at least 9.5. but rarely do they climb above 12.5.
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