Wine Spectator 93
Firm and dense, this red delivers rich flavors of blackberry, fig, cocoa, licorice and mineral, set in a thick texture, supported by well-integrated tannins and kept lively by balsamic acidity. Savory, even austere, yet harmonious and complete. Best from 2022 through 2036. 2,250 cases made, 1,250 cases imported. — TM
Jeb Dunnuck 93
"More elegant and seamless, the 2016 Vatan checks in as all Tinta de Toro that spent 20 months in new French oak. It has a brilliant bouquet of blackcurrants, toasted spice, crushed violets, and owery incense. Rich and full-bodied, with good acidity, beautiful balance, and a great nish, it's going to benet from 2-4 years of bottle age and keep for 20+ years. It's a stunning wine." Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com, Sept. 6th 2019
Denominacion de Origen: D.O. Toro
Location: Vallaester de Abajo, in the province of Zamora, D.O. Toro
Varietal: 100 Tinta de Toro
Vineyards: Finca Los Quemaos
Year(s) Planted: Planted in 1900 on ungrafted (original) rootstock.
Viticulture: Traditional dry farmed viticulture. Organic Gobelet trained vines. Cultivated completely by hand.
Soils: Primarily sandy soils from alluvial origin. There is a layer of red clay 20 cm thick in the subsoil two to three meters below the surface. These sandy soils allowed this region to successfully resist the phylloxera.
Climate: Continental steppe climate, with drastic temperature swings between day and night. The climate is also very dry annual rainfall levels reach 350 liters/m2, less than half of Rioja and much less than Ribera del Duero.
Winemaking: Rigorous sorting is followed by destemming and the whole berries are transferred to open top three ton stainless steel temperature controlled fermenters. The spontaneous fermentation is carried out by indigenous yeast. The wine completes primary fermentation and malolactic fermentation in barrel.
Ageing: 18-22 months in primarily Bordeaux and Burgundy barrels with a small percentage of the wine in 500&600L puncheons and demi-muids.
Comments: Vatan is the pure representation of the oldest clone of Tempranillo in Spain, from some of the oldest ungrafted vines in the country, located in the only Spanish D.O. that completely resisted the phylloxera plague. During the Middle Ages, Toro was Spains most famous winemaking region. Mentioned in literature by Alfonso IX (King of Len, 12th c.), Juan Ruiz the Archpriest of Hita, Quevedo, Luis de Gngora, and Miguel de Cervantes. In 14th Century Sevilla, the sale of any foreign wine was prohibited, save the wines of Toro. These wines accompanied Spanish explorers to the New World. D.O. Toro was rediscovered by the Numanthia project, masterminded by Jorge Ordez and the Eguren family.
J. OrdonezView all from J. Ordonez
"Bodegas Jorge Ordóñez Málaga, located in Ordóñez's hometown, was founded in 2004. A partnership between Ordóñez and the Kracher family of Austria, the winery was founded with the goal of resuscitating the centuries long tradition of winemaking in Málaga, which was destroyed by the phylloxera plague in the 19th century. It was Jorge's dream to champion his home region and restore it to its former glory.
The winery has more than accomplished its goal by producing the Spain's first and best dry Moscatel de Alejandría, Botani, and by reviving the tradition of unfortified sweet wine making in Málaga. Our series of sweet wines, N˚s 1 through 4, are amongst the finest in the world, and are produced in the style of the unfortified sweet wines of Málaga that were internationally renowned in the 17th through 19th centuries. In 2012, N˚2 Victoria became the first Spanish wine ever served at a Nobel Prize dinner.
Jorge Ordóñez Málaga produces its dry and sweet wines from Muscat of Alexandria, the oldest clone worldwide of the Muscat varietal. This is the original Muscat, which was originally cultivated extensively around Alexandria, Egypt, and planted in Málaga by Phoenician traders 3,000 years ago. Muscat of Alexandria is one of the world's only remaining ancient (genetically uncrossed) grape varieties and the most important for commercial wine production. The Muscat of Alexandria vineyards used by Jorge Ordóñez Málaga were planted between 1902 and 1974 on un-terraced mountainside vineyards. The vineyards of Málaga are perhaps the most extreme and dangerous in Europe, due to the decomposed slate soils, and inclines of up to 70˚. The vast majority of steep vineyards in Europe have terraces or are mechanized in some way to protect workers and assist with harvest. The vineyards in Málaga have remained untouched. All pruning and harvesting is done by hand, and mules carry six 15kg boxes up the slopes at a time. An absolutely heroic form of viticulture.
In order to work with grapes that have high acidity, Jorge Ordóñez Málaga exclusively works with mountainside vineyards that are oriented away from the Mediterranean. In such a warm, dry climate, most grapes would completely lack balancing acidity. Furthermore, most of the winery's vineyards are located at above 700m above sea level.
Jorge Ordóñez Málaga is also the headquarters for all of Grupo Jorge Ordóñez. Please read more about the rich and extensive history of Málaga on the Denominación de Origen page."