Boundary Breaks Riesling No. 198 Reserve 2017
Not Vintage Specific
Item Number: 32193
Wine Advocate 92
"The 2017 Riesling Reserve "No. 198 Single Clone" is made by Kelby Russell at Red Newt from Boundary Breaks' estate vines. It comes in with 50 grams of sugar, 8.5 of total acidity and only 8.3% alcohol. It's the one wine Boundary Breaks makes that leans to pleasing those who really prefer them on the sweet side, not just off-dry. With Kelby Russell as the winemaker, it sure won't be sloppy sweet, though. Still, this is radically different in the lineup, although not quite a dessert wine. Call it closer to an Auslese style. I tend to enjoy wines like this on their own, although there are some food pairings that would work. For all of that, it still has beautiful acidity cutting through the big fruit and sugar, fine balance and an enlivening demeanor. It's softer than the drier wines, but it's pretty delicious too. I wondered how it would do with air and warmth, and it held up just fine. It was arguably better the next day, and the day after that—it should age pretty well. Normally, I prefer the drier styles in the Finger Lakes, but this bargain might just be the best of Boundary Breaks' submissions this issue (it's close, though). Don't drink it too warm."
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