Boundary Breaks Vineyard No.198 Reserve Riesling 2012
Item Number: 18935
Not Vintage Specific
Item Number: 18935
Wine Advocate 91
"The 2012 Riesling Reserve "No. 198 Single Clone" is unoaked with 54 grams per liter of residual sugar and 10% alcohol. Late harvested, it is compared to a German Spatlese, says owner Bruce Murray. That's a lot of residual sugar, to be sure, but he's more or less right. It isn't really a dessert wine, even if off-dry. Avoiding the funk that the drier Riesling this issue showed, this is remarkably fresh, classic and delicious. It is hard to believe this operation is so new. They may yet do great things, but they are already doing nice things. If you like off-dry Riesling in that Mosel style, this is impossible to dislike and it comes in at a nice price. This should hold reasonably well, but since there is not a lot of track record there, let's take that in stages. It is great now, however long it theoretically lasts at peak. That's a hint. There were 400 cases produced.
Boundary Breaks is a Riesling specialist. In 2008, they acquired a 120-acre site on the East Side of Seneca Lake, N.Y., near the water. The first vines were planted in 2009 and the first release was in 2011. They have four Riesling styles: Dry, Medium Dry, Reserve and Late Harvest.
Those categorizations are quite a bit different than what the residual sugar numbers suggest, though. Even the driest comes with 9 grams per liter of residual sugar, well beyond what would be legally considered as fully dry (4 grams per liter) in most European jurisdictions for a typical table wine. Of course, acidity can balance sugar and make the wine seem perceptibly drier. In many appellations, the "legally dry" lines may be quite different as a result. The Finger Lakes has no legal standard here, but as some other regions do, the producers try to take into account acidity balancing sugar and speak to issues of perceptible dryness.
Owner Bruce Murray gave me some insights into his thinking: "Yes, I think the acidity that we find in our Finger Lakes Riesling makes it very risky to produce a Dry Riesling below 4 grams per liter of residual sugar. Some producers have tried this and the result is too acidic....The wines are just out of balance at this level. ...[W]hat is the proper target. In all honesty, I am not sure. We are trying to dial in to that number. I do feel that 9 grams (which is the level in the samples I sent) is at the very upper extreme of a "Dry" Riesling for the Finger Lakes. We are going slightly lower in 2014. We produced an experimental run of 40 cases of 2013 "Dry" Riesling at 6 grams per liter (after harvesting it very late). This might, in fact, be the proper target, but we just don't know.'
In any event, it starts at 9 here at the moment, and goes up quickly and notably from there. Check the notes for how well this balances with the acidity. Owner Bruce Murray advises that total production is about 4,000 cases at this time.
One last thing I will say–it is simply astonishing that a winery this young is doing so well so quickly. Call this a rising star."~Mark Squires
"Boundary Breaks is a vineyard located on the east side of Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes AVA of New York. In 2007, owner Bruce Murray purchased a 120-acre farm that had been in the same family since 1850. Murray’s goal was to develop a vineyard that could yield Finger Lakes Rieslings that were comparable to some of the great Rieslings of Germany and Alsace.
The vineyard site is exceptional. There are 70 acres of open farmland that had previously been planted to row crops like corn and soybeans. The soils are characterized as “Cazenovia Silt Loam” which is tested at an optimal pH typical of calcareous soils. These soils are considered ideal for producing complex aromatic white wines.
The focus for Boundary Breaks is exclusively Riesling. There are four wines that are made in four different styles ranging from bone dry to medium sweet. The styles also utilize different clones of Riesling. The focus and dedication of the project is a revelation in the region and one which is helping redefine the potential in the the Finger Lakes AVA."~Distributor Notes
Ho hum - We were underwhelmed with this Riesling. Kind of fell flat.
Posted by Erika on 2/8/16 [Verified]
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