Boundary Breaks Vineyard Ovid Line North Riesling 2013
Item Number: 18936
Not Vintage Specific
Item Number: 18936
Wine Advocate 89
"The 2013 Riesling "Ovid Line North" Single Vineyard is an unoaked blend of various clones with 33 grams per liter of residual sugar. This is the winery's workhorse wine, with about 2,500 cases of their total of 4,000. Yet, it is quite lovely. How can you go wrong at this price? Fresh, fragrant, clean and enticing, this is perfectly balanced. Despite the high level of sugar, the acidity cuts through it and makes it seem far drier. Easy and quite delicious, this is an off-dry Kabinett style in all but name.
Boundary Breaks is a Riesling specialist. In 2008, they acquired a 120-acre site on the East Side of Seneca Lake, N.Y., near the water. The first vines were planted in 2009 and the first release was in 2011. They have four Riesling styles: Dry, Medium Dry, Reserve and Late Harvest.
Those categorizations are quite a bit different than what the residual sugar numbers suggest, though. Even the driest comes with 9 grams per liter of residual sugar, well beyond what would be legally considered as fully dry (4 grams per liter) in most European jurisdictions for a typical table wine. Of course, acidity can balance sugar and make the wine seem perceptibly drier. In many appellations, the "legally dry" lines may be quite different as a result. The Finger Lakes has no legal standard here, but as some other regions do, the producers try to take into account acidity balancing sugar and speak to issues of perceptible dryness.
Owner Bruce Murray gave me some insights into his thinking: "Yes, I think the acidity that we find in our Finger Lakes Riesling makes it very risky to produce a Dry Riesling below 4 grams per liter of residual sugar. Some producers have tried this and the result is too acidic....The wines are just out of balance at this level. ...[W]hat is the proper target. In all honesty, I am not sure. We are trying to dial in to that number. I do feel that 9 grams (which is the level in the samples I sent) is at the very upper extreme of a "Dry" Riesling for the Finger Lakes. We are going slightly lower in 2014. We produced an experimental run of 40 cases of 2013 "Dry" Riesling at 6 grams per liter (after harvesting it very late). This might, in fact, be the proper target, but we just don't know.'
In any event, it starts at 9 here at the moment, and goes up quickly and notably from there. Check the notes for how well this balances with the acidity. Owner Bruce Murray advises that total production is about 4,000 cases at this time.
One last thing I will say–it is simply astonishing that a winery this young is doing so well so quickly. Call this a rising star."~Mark Squires
"Boundary Breaks is a vineyard located on the east side of Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes AVA of New York. In 2007, owner Bruce Murray purchased a 120-acre farm that had been in the same family since 1850. Murray’s goal was to develop a vineyard that could yield Finger Lakes Rieslings that were comparable to some of the great Rieslings of Germany and Alsace.
The vineyard site is exceptional. There are 70 acres of open farmland that had previously been planted to row crops like corn and soybeans. The soils are characterized as “Cazenovia Silt Loam” which is tested at an optimal pH typical of calcareous soils. These soils are considered ideal for producing complex aromatic white wines.
The focus for Boundary Breaks is exclusively Riesling. There are four wines that are made in four different styles ranging from bone dry to medium sweet. The styles also utilize different clones of Riesling. The focus and dedication of the project is a revelation in the region and one which is helping redefine the potential in the the Finger Lakes AVA."~Distributor Notes
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