Wine Enthusiast 92
# 55 Top 100 2019
"Lemon zest, white pepper and salty yeast on the nose promise complexity. The palate is juicy and imbues that salty, yeasty core with juicy pear and orange peel freshness. This is rounded but fresh with a lovely, long salty finish. ANNE KREBIEHL MW"
Best from a smaller glass, and best served quite cool. It was spicier and more peppery from Zalto; its muscular but not a body-builder type. Some phenolics apparent. Analog. A decent intro to Ott, but be aware it isnt a pixilated modern GV. Terry Theise"
Am Berg or From the Mountain is the basic wine and a great choice for by the glass. Light in texture and very fresh, this is an organically farmed, classic GV from loess soils in Feuersbrunn. Natural fermentation in stainless steel, on the fine lees until February after the vintage
The Ott family has been growing and producing wine in the region of Wagram in Lower Austria since 1889. Bernhard Ott is of the fourth generation and has managed the winery since 1993, when he took the helm from his father. When he came home to the winery as a 21 year old, he was interested in producing wines of the highest quality. Bernhard wanted to prove that elegant and long lived wines could be produced from Grner Veltliner grown on loess soil, specifically from Rosenberg vineyard. Bernhard replaced the old wooden casks with stainless steel and began working the vineyards with an aim for the highest high quality.
In 2004 Benhard began composting, using organic cow manure from a friend in the region. In the past four years hes used so much manure that the EU contacted him; they didnt think it was possible to use 100,000 Euros worth of manure they thought there was some accounting mistake. In 2006 he took a trip to the legendary biodynamic property Domaine La Romane Conti in Vosne, with his best friend, Hans Reisetbauer. There, after a marathon tasting in the cellars with Aubert de Villaine, Bernhard committed to move to biodynamic viticulture. In 2007, with Johannes Hirsch, Fred Loimer and a group of like-minded producers, Respekt was formed. In 2014, after a very difficult harvest in which Bernhard didnt bottle any single vineyard wines, he decided to work whole cluster saying the stem is part of the grape. If you work without stems, you get more sweetness, more round fruit.
Today, Bernhard is looking back to previous generations for inspiration and to inform both his work in the vineyard and in the cellar. Grapes are picked at full ripeness, but thanks to biodynamic farming and composting, the sugar ripeness stays very moderate. The compost helps with water regulation. Healthy soils give water when the weather is dry and take it back when there is too much. This also means no irrigation at all. says Bernhard. In addition to working the soils with compost, Bernhard is a firm believer in not disrupting the eco-sysytem under the soils too much, preferring to plowing only 8cm deep.
Harvest is done 100 by hand, something that is very important to note in a region whos rolling hills and flatter landscape allow for machine harvesting. After picking and a strickt selection, the fruit is crushed in the press and maceration is done inside the press. The length of the maceration depends on the vintage, but also on the vineyard and the quality of the fruit. Bernhard uses closed pneumatic presses and has several different sizes. This is how the press used to operate there was only one pressing per day, so there was a maceration in the press. explains Berhard. The juice is browned and racked into stainless steel where it is fermented by native yeasts without temperature control. Minimal amounts of sulfur are used at harvest and bottling and the cellar is very cold, inhibiting the development of malolactic. The single vineyard wines from the three Erste Lagen Rosenberg, Spiegel and Stein are on the full less until June or July before racking and bottling. The resulting wines are some of the very finest in Austria, straddling a juicy character with strong soil signatures.
Vineyard area: 40 hectares
Top sites and soil types: Feuersbrunner Spiegel, Feuersbrunner Rosenberg, Engabrunner Stein (loess, Gfhler gneiss, sand, chalk, and red gravel)
Grape varieties: 90 Grner Veltliner, 10 Riesling
Farming Practice:Certified Biodynamic
Domaines OttView all from Domaines Ott
Domaines Ott was founded in 1912 by Alsatian engineer Marcel Ott. Today, the wineries are owned and managed by Champagne Louis Roederer, producing some of the world's most prestigious wines. These wines are made at three distinctively different estates: Château Romassan (Bandol), Clos Mireille and Château de Selle (both Côtes de Provence).