James Suckling 93
"Who says that riesling from loess soils is always round and fruity, but never exciting? This is sleek and quite tart with so much pear, herb and mineral character, as well as a great, mineral finish. Better from 2018 and should develop for some years to come.
Publish Date: Sunday, October 1, 2017"
Well! This is fine, fresh, giddy with lime blossom and balsam; a firm high-stepping wine that reminded me of Dönnhoff’s Höllenpfad in its friendlier editions. Actually this is kin to the ’16 Germans, all the way to the slightly phenolic farewell.
The Ott family has been growing and producing wine in the region of Wagram in Lower Austria since 1889. Bernhard Ott is of the fourth generation and has managed the winery since 1995, when he took the helm from his father, expanding the estate to 28 ha in Feuersbrunn and Engabrunn.
After assuming control at the winery, Bernhard worked meticulously to improve the family estate. He improved the cellar with new stainless steel tanks, began bottling everything under Stelvin closure and started enforcing his own personal philosophy – being as true to nature as possible. Bernhard has converted many of his vineyards to biodynamic cultivation, certified biodynamic by RESPEKT, and has taken steps at the winery to reflect this philosophy.
Bernhard is extremely diligent in his vineyard work; he adds compost and preparations to the soil rather than fertilizing individual vines, uses cover-crops and biodynamic tinctures and homeopathic remedies to treat vineyard problems. In keeping with the philosophy of the biodynamic approach, work in the vineyards and cellar is done in a holistic and lopped system. Ott found that after switching to biodynamic farming, he was able to harvest grapes from his vineyards several weeks earlier than he had in the years prior to his switch to this biodynamic viticultural approach.
“Before, I was one of the latest people to harvest. Now I am one of the earliest.” Ott says. He feels he is able to achieve physiological ripness earlier, without getting overly high levels of sugar that would result in high alcohol wines.
Bernhard Ott is a cult icon in the world of Austrian wine, leading the way in the Wagram region through meticulous vineyard management in some of Austria’s best vineyards. At a young age he has already received Austria’s highest accolade as Falstaff’s Winemaker of the Year in 2008.
Vineyard area: 28 hectares
Top sites and soil types: Feuersbrunner Spiegel, Feuersbrunner Rosenberg, Engabrunner Stein (loess, Gföhler gneiss, sand, chalk, and red gravel)
Grape varieties: 90% Grüner Veltliner, 10% Riesling
Farming Practice:Certified Biodynamic
Domaines OttView all from Domaines Ott
Domaines Ott was founded in 1912 by Alsatian engineer Marcel Ott. Today, the wineries are owned and managed by Champagne Louis Roederer, producing some of the world's most prestigious wines. These wines are made at three distinctively different estates: Château Romassan (Bandol), Clos Mireille and Château de Selle (both Côtes de Provence).