James Suckling 92
"The custodian of the oldest vines in Soave, a great many pre-phylloxera centurions, while the majority are circa 70-years-old. All tank fermented. Exemplary Soave classico, with white pepper, jasmine, glazed quince and peach pith, steely and dry, careening along a rail of saline mineral perk. Breadth, freshness, vinosity and phenolics, serving as a sheath of compression to the sheer intensity of the house style. Drink or hold."

The Wine
100 Garganega, the top quality of Ginis fruit makes it possible to avoid blending in any other grapes such as Chardonnay or Pinot Blanc, as is common in the region, allowing for a gentle but refreshing expression of this unique varietal. Following strict selection of 100 hand-harvested fruit, the grapes are soft pressed and the must is then immediately cooled. Thereafter, fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. The wine remains on its lees in steel tanks for another six months before bottling, lending richness and complexity.

The Estate
These Soaves embarrass most of the industrial swill that emerges from this region. Robert Parker

The Gini family has roots in the Soave Classico region dating from the eighteenth century, and owns 25 hectares of vineyards situated on the very best hillside position of the appellation. Extremely low yields, low-interference viticulture, and devoted attention to expression of the particular crus results in wines that are not only among the greatest Soaves but also among the great white wines of all Italy. Olinto Gini and sons Sandro and Claudio have now finally completed their beautiful new cellar, which extends deep into the rocky and tufaceous hillside of Monteforte dAlpone, thus providing optimal natural temperature and humidity control.

Both tradition and the modern are reflected at Gini. The hand-harvested Soave Classicos are 100 Garganega, though many in the zone blend in other varietals to compensate for shortcomings of less-than perfect grapes. Both the Soave Classico and the single-vineyard La Frosca (which received 90 pts from Tanzer for the 2006 vintage, and three glasses in the 2008 Gambero Rosso guide) are vinified in stainless steel. The rich, concentrated Salvarenza, from a tiny plot of 80-year-old vines within the La Frosca vineyard, is matured in barriques (92 pts Tanzer for the 2005 vintage.) The Re Nobilis is a rare representative of a botrytized style Recioto, northern Italys version of a German TBA, while the Recioto Col Foscarin is a delightful desert wine, also great with cheese.

Vineyard Practices: At the estate, natural agriculture is carried out Gini is certified organic. The vines maintain a low production and adhere to biodynamic standards (pruning occurs in accordance with the moons phases). Integrated insect and disease control is followed. Insecticides are not used. Copper and sulfur-based products control fungus and manure fertilizes the soil. Spontaneous cover crops (grass cover) are left between the rows of vines, the grass cover is mowed and the turf is left in place (the soil is not tilled). Very low doses of SO2 are added to the wine only after fermentation and before bottling in order to preserve the product.

Farming Practice:Certified Organic