Robert Parker 92-94
"Resting in tank, but essentially ready for bottling, was Hiedlers 2005 Gruner Veltliner Thal Novemberlese, which underwent batonnage until May and had just been filtered prior to bottling when I tasted it. Lemon, orange, white peach, and brown spice aromas suggest Riesling. More Gruner Veltliner-typical sweet pea and root vegetables join in on the rich, satisfyingly leesy, subtly vanilla creme palate. A full-throated finish incorporates peach pit, caramelized root vegetables, spices, pepper, aromatic herbs, and mysterious mineral elements. This superbly rich Gruner Veltliner has acidity so low (a mere five grams per liter) as to seem downright deficient on paper, yet it displays lilt, minerality, brightness, and clarity. Indeed, the wine which kept growing in the glass is completely in a class by itself among Hiedlers 2005s. If this is how the wine tastes immediately after filtration, imagine how good it may prove to be once bottled and rested!"
Weingut HiedlerView all from Weingut Hiedler
From 35 hectares of Erste Lage holdings in the Kamptal, Ludwig Hiedler is crafting some of the most interesting, texturally compelling wines of the region. The Hiedler family has been producing wine in Langelois since the mid-18th century. Starting in 1980, Ludwig and María Angeles Hiedler have lead operations, while their son Ludwig Jr. finishes his winemaking studies and practicum at Von Volxem.
Hiedler's holdings are in the best vineyards in the Kamptal, with riesling parcels in the Heiligenstein and Gaisberg, and grüner veltliner in the deep loess vineyards that rest at the base of those two mountains: Lamm, Grub, and Renner. Hiedler's other sites in the area include a 'Grand Cru' monopole, Thal, Spiegel, Steinhaus, and Loiserberg. In addition to grüner veltiliner and riesling, the Hiedlers work with weissburgunder, the first plantings of which were planted by Ludwig's father in the Schenkenbickl, a 'Grand Cru' plot just below the Käferberg. The estate is a pioneer in ecological winegrowing and only sustainable vineyard practices are implemented – intense cover of herbs and flowering vegetation are used, as well as a compost program and integrated pest management. The first organic experiments began in the sites Thal and Kittmannsberg and have extended throughout Hiedler's parcels.
Ludwig extends his natural approach to his vines in the cellar as well. For the past several years now, Ludwig has operated with only spontaneous fermentations, without temperature control, enzymes or even SO2. Grapes are selectively harvested by hand. After fermentation, wines are matured in either stainless steel or casks made with local Langenlois acacia, employing extended lees contact and selective batonnage. Notably, malolactic fermentation is never blocked but allowed to occur naturally, allowing Hiedler a quite broad and unique dimension of texture and weight; a distinctive approach to both grüner veltliner and riesling from this region.
Vineyard area: 28 hectares
Top sites: Thal, Losierberg, Spiegel, Heiligenstein, Gaisberg
Soil types: Sandy loess and loam, gravel, eroded desert sandstone
Grape varieties: 45% Grüner Veltliner, 15% Riesling, 10% Weissburgunder, 10% Chardonnay, 3% Frühroter Veltliner, 17% Zweigelt, Pinot Noir and Sangiovese