James Suckling 90
"Plenty of citrusy charm and attractive balance of juicy fruit and crisp, slightly sappy acidity make this just off-dry estate riesling easy to enjoy. Drink now. Screw cap."
Winery Village: Mnster-Sarmsheim
Vineyard: a Cuvee of Kapellenberg and Dautenpflnzer selction of the younger vineyards 15-25 years
Soil Type: Quartz, loess, some red slate
Production: stainless steel, fermentation with natural yeasts
Mnsterer Kapellenberg quartz, with some red slate several sections which are very steep, but similar to Rheinberg where the lower sections have richer soils.
Mnsterer Dautenpflnzer loesss, subsoil is quartz Daute means shoot and pflnzer means plant, an homage to the fact that this was once a nursery. South facing, the older section is steep, and the vineyard is an amphitheater shape
The roots of the Kruger-Rumpf estate date back to the early 1700s. Like most vine-growers at the time, the family sold the majority of their grape production to larger houses or cooperatives. This practice continued through the ninetieth and early twentieth centuries until Stefan Rumpf kept the majority of their harvest to produce their own estate wines in 1984. This move allowed Kruger-Rumpf to focus on quality and express the distinctive terroirs in the familys holding. Stefans sons Georg and Philipp, are continuing the trajectory with renewed energy and technical skill. The brothers Rumpf graduated from Germanys prestigious Geisenheim University; Georg studied viticulture and oenology, while Philipp focused on wine economics. With Georg in the cellar and vineyards, this estate is producing world-class wine. This is an innovative estate that is on the move, always striving for new levels of quality and terroir expression. Im still trying to improve what Im doing, says Georg. Im not at the end of the road and still searching for the best possible expressions for each site that I can produce.
Weve been watching the development at Rumpf for the past five vintages with an especially close eye. The number of sites and wines had, at times, felt like it was bordering on too much, even for someone with as much energy as Georg. Married now, with two beautiful girls, Georg credits his wife Julia and family in his rethinking and reshaping the winery. Its a more conscious decision now, and he knows where he wants to expend his energy and what the future of the domaine is.
The Kruger-Rumpf estate is located in Mnster-Sarmsheim, a small village on the western side of the Nahe River, in the most northern section of this region. Paradoxically, though it is the furthest point north and where the Nahe meets the Rhein River, it is the warmest area of this region. Geographically unique, this area represents the intersection of four major German wine regions: the Nahe where the winery is located, the Rheingau and Mittelrhein to the north, Rheinhessen to the east.
The majority of Kruger-Rumpfs holdings are located on the western side of the Nahe, though they also own parcels directly across the Nahe River in Binger Scharlachberg, which is part of the Rheinhessen. Standing in Kruger-Rumpfs parcels in Rheinberg (Nahe), one can look out to Scharlachberg across the Nahe River in Rheinhessen, as well as the southern bend of the Rheingau and the Rudesheimer Berg, one of the most famous parts of the region, visible to the north.
Kruger-Rumpfs holdings represent some of the greatest terroirs in the region with south-facing exposures and classic Nahe soil compositions, though each is uniquely arranged. The Grosses Gewchs sites are the jewels of the estate: the steep slate vineyard Mnsterer im Pitterberg while the Mnsterer Dautenpflnzer, a tiny parcel within Kapellenberg is quartzite and loess-clay based. Both sites are south-facing allowing for the production of high quality Grosses Gewchs (dry) styled wines. Binger Scharlachberg located in Rheinhessen, is composed of quartz and red sandstone soils and produces a Grosses Gewchs of power and finesse. The 2 hectare Dautenpflnzer is rarely affected by frost and the top layer of soil is nutrient rich, both factors are important in cultivating young vines. The name Dauten means shoot and pflanzer means planter, a nod to its previous life as a vine nursery The Mnsterer Rheinberg. Located behind the village, Dautenpflnzer is made mostly of quartzite with sandy loam and a south/south-east exposure.
Georg is committed to organic viticulture and while they have been practicing organic for several years, they have started the transition for certification. Bees are kept nearby to facilitate pollination and aid in overall bio-diversity. Periodically sheep are allowed to roam the vines helping to control underbrush. All vineyards are hand harvested to ensure that only optimally ripe grapes are selected. Stefan believed that you cant improve wine in the cellar, only make it worse, and Georg has continued his cellar work with this philosophy in mind. Fermentations occur spontaneously with ambient yeast for the fruity wines. Ambient yeasts are preferred though sometimes a neutral strain of cultured yeast is required to complete its fermentation. Often the wines stay on their gross lees well into spring. The wines produced to show the best of Kruger-Rumpfs renowned vineyard sites, with brilliance, concentration, and extract.
Kruger Rumpf WineryView all from Kruger Rumpf Winery
The Kruger-Rumpf winery was founded in 1790 and nearly 200 years later Stefan Rumpf took over the estate in 1984. Stefan Rumpf began producing his own, estate wines rather than selling the juice off in bulk, as had been customary. Now, son Georg has joined Stefan, after graduating from Geisenheim's esteemed winemaking school.
Münster lies in a narrow valley between the Nahe and the Rheinhessen where the Nahe river meets the Rhein. Two Grosses Gewächs sites are the jewels of the estate: the slate vineyard Münsterer Pittersberg and the Münsterer Dautenpflänzer, a tiny parcel within Kapellenberg containing quartzite and loess-clay soils. The 2 hectare Dautenpflänzer is rarely affected by frost and the top layer of soil is rather nutrient rich, both factors important in cultivating young vines. Other important vineyard sites include the Münsterer Rheinberg, made mostly of quartzite with sandy loam, and Binger Scharlachberg, composed of porphyr and red sandstone soils – a site that actually lies across the mighty Nahe in Rheinhessen. Vineyards are farmed sustainably at Kruger-Rumpf, and care is taken during the hand harvesting to ensure that only optimally ripe grapes are picked, as Georg does not favor any botrytis.
Stefan believes "You can't improve wine in the cellar, only make it worse." A short fermentation is preferred, as the Rumpfs believe a long fermentation will remove fruit and freshness of character in the wines. Fermentations occur spontaneously with natural yeast for the fruity wines, and though ambient yeast strains inhabitat the 10+ year old stuck used for the Grosses Gewächs, sometimes a neutral strain of cultured yeast is required to complete its fermentation. Often the wines stay on their gross lees well into spring. The wines produced show the best of his renowned vineyard sites, with haunting brilliance, concentration and extract.
Vineyard area: 22 hectares
Annual production: 13,750 cases
Münster – Dautenpflänzer (slate, sandy loam)
Kapellenberg (quartzite, loam)
Rheinberg (quartzite, sandy loam, slate)
Bingen – Scharlachberg (Rotliegend, porphyry)