Wine Advocate 92
"The non-vintage Light Manzanilla Papirusa Solera Reserva (with an average age of five years in this solera) possesses an extraordinary, penetrating nose of salty brined nuts intermixed with crisp fruit, terrific acidity and intense, powerful, authoritative flavors that are ethereal in their lightness."
Wine Spectator 91
“Lovely quinine, verbena, white peach and lemon peel notes mingle here, with a long, rippling finish that brings you back for more. Drink now.”
Wine & Spirits 92
"Compared to Finos, Manzanillas tend to be lighter and fresher. They age in an area with higher humidity, which allows the flor to grow thicker, preventing oxidation and retaining the wine’s bright aromas and flavors. Papirusa is one of the clearest examples of this style. Blended from five- to six-year-old wines, it’s light and soft, full of saline mineral flavors, notes of salted nuts and marzipan. It’s intense but never tiring, especially if you have albondigas de bacalao (cod fritters) to accompany it."
" Lustau made its reputation in the foreign markets with its extraordinary single cask Almacenistas which had been accumulated by the family over many years as their soleras are among the oldest in Sherry. The family also owns over 500 acres of vineyards. These are all remarkable efforts for their stunning value. While they are still under-the-radar for most American wine lovers, I encourage readers to give them a try as they are great introductory reference points for how profound sherry can be. I first wrote about the extraordinary sherries of Emilio Lustau many years ago, in the early days of The Wine Advocate. The portfolio of under $25 a bottle selections represents remarkable value for their complex, well-made personalities. Lustau includes a bottling date code as purchasers would want to buy Finos and Manzanillas as young as possible. It is difficult to describe the glories of sherry, but I’ll try. These Solera Reservas are all great reference points at a low price point from Lustau. None of the Almacenista soleras, which are single cask and very limited bottlings, are reviewed since they are priced over $25 a bottle, but they can be as profound as any alcoholic beverage in the world.
A bone dry Manzanilla from the bodegas of the town of Sanlucar de Barrameda, light and fresh, very tangy, clean and crisp with just a hint of saltiness.
The Manzanilla 'Papirusa is best served chilled, in a copita or white wine glass. It is an idea aperitif with tapas or as a wine with a meal, with seafood or fish. " ~ Winery notes
LustauView all from Lustau
"Simply staggering in quality... Sherries such as these remain among the last great unknown wine bargains of the world. They must be tasted to be believed!"
Emilio Lustau SA was founded in 1896 by Don José Ruiz-Berdejo. In the beginning, Lustau was essentially an Almacenista, a modest estate with small holdings that sold most of its wine to large exporting Bodegas. It was not until the 1950s that Lustau became Emilio Lustau SA, and it joined the prestigious ranks of a select group of exporters of Sherry. In the early 1980s, Emilio Lustau SA, then under the management of the late Rafael Balao, became one of the most innovative companies in Jerez, launching the "Almacenista" line and creating the distinctive bottle that we know today. Lustau is now widely considered one of the finest producers of Sherry, with their Almacenista line breaking new ground in hand-crafted, boutique wines. These Sherries, drawing on rare and marvelous wines held by small producers, are some of the finest Sherries made today.
Lustau offers a wide array of Sherries; bone-dry Finos are wonderful matches with garlic-y shrimp and langostinos. Racy Amontillados balance power with finesse and are wonderful with nuts, olives, cheeses, and jamon Serrano. Powerful Olorosos can be served during a meal and match well with traditional soups and stews. Of course, the wide range of dessert wines from Lustau are unparalleled; the elegant East India Cream Sherry is as soft as silk, the Moscatels offers a delightful citrus edge that keeps the wines lively on the palate while the dark Pedro Ximenez is best served as a "syrup" over vanilla ice cream, pancakes or waffles.