Vinous Media 93
"The NV Brut Le Brut is another absolutely compelling wine in this range. Le Brut is 90 Chardonnay and 10 Pinot Noir, based on 2017 with 60 reserve wines from 2016-2011. What stands out most, though, is the wine's total translucence and finesse. Citrus, floral and spice nuances seem to hover on the palate. The 8 grams of dosage is not at all evident. This is such a pretty and harmonious wine.
Wine Advocate 92
"Arnaud Margaines NV Brut Premier Cru is gorgeous. White flowers, crushed rocks and green pears literally jump from the glass in this beautifully delineated, energetic Champagne. Vivid, crystalline and beautifully layered, the Premier Cru impresses for its balance and exceptional overall harmony. This is a great effort in its peer group. The Premier Cru is 90 Chardonnay and 10 Pinot Noir, 50 vintage 2009 and the remainder reserve wines back to 2002. I would give the Premier Cru another 6-12 months to be fully expressive post-disgorgement. Disgorgement date: July 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. - Wine Advocate (Nov 2012)"
Wine Spectator 92
"Refined, with aromatic anise, almond and raisin notes that are finely layered with berry, cassis, candied lemon peel and smoke flavors. Lip-smacking acidity keeps this fresh and lively through to the mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2018. AN - Spectator (Nov 2011)"
Allen Meadows 91
"An intensely citrusy nose also offers up notes of white flowers and a very subtle but not invisible hint of reduction. There is a very clean mouth feel to the crisp, cool and linear flavors that possess a moderate effervescence before culminating a rich and borderline creamy finish that invites another sip. This is a lovely effort that is drinking perfectly now. - Burghound (Issue 52)"
Stephen Tanzer 90
"(90 chardonnay and 10 pinot noir; bottled in July, 2013 after 26 months on its lees): Bright straw. Fresh melon and peach on the nose, with a dusty mineral quality adding complexity and lift. Juicy honeydew and pit fruit flavors are concentrated and energetic, picking up bitter quinine and toasty lees notes with air. Finishes with good focus and lingering floral and spice qualities. - Tanzer (Dec 2013)"
" 56 2007, 24 06, 10 05, 8 99 and 1 of 94 Pinot Noir. I know, theres a missing
one per-cent. Thats polysorbate-80, for freshness. Disgorged 1/10; this is surprisingly
good on so many levels, so close after disgorgement, so much 07; its fine, detailed and distinctive, cool fruit and expressive chalk. Its balanced on the dry side, so a nice aperitif
or starter-course wine. A long and blatantly chalky finish. Show this to someone
who insists you cant taste the chalk!
Violet and hyacinth aromas make you think of Riesling (as these wines often do), but the palate is all apples and Rainier cherries with a chalk-powder sprinkle; wonderfully silky and generous, refined and accurate. A virtual Blanc de Blancs; 90 Chardonnay to 10 Pinot Noir. " ~ Winery notes
Region: Montagne de Reims
Premier cru sites in Villers-Marmery
Total vineyard holdings: 6.5 hectares
Annual production: 5,800 cases
Vines: 90% chardonnay, 10% pinot noir
Villers-Marmery is an anomaly in the Montagne de Reims, an island of Chardonnay in a sea of Pinot Noir creating near Blanc de Blancs and giving the most simply delicious Champagnes in this portfolio. These can be some of the most hauntingly beautiful and original Champagnes you can drink. The clone of Chardonnay used by Margaine in Villers-Marmery is specific to this area and cannot be found in other parts of Champagne.
Arnaud Margaine took over this six and a half hectare estate from his father Bernard in 1989 and is the fourth generation of his family to work these vineyards in the Mogntagne de Reims. The estate was founded in the 1920s and was expanded by Bernard in the 1950s. In 1977 Bernard joined the Special Club and Arnaud has continued his father's commitment to high quality champagnes and continues to improve his raw materials in the vineyard.
The majority of Margaine's holdings are in the village of Villers-Marmery, a 95% village for Chardonnay, and the parcels here are old averaging about 32 years. Margaine also has a small parcel of Pinot Noir in the village of Verzy.
The methods at this estate are not formulaic and Arnaud continues to experiment with new ideas in both the vineyard and the cellar. He prefers to make decisions in the cellar based on what he feels the wines need, rather than what was done in the previous year. Arnaud is preventing malolactic fermentation in a higher proportion of the wines, saying that he finds that non-malo wines have more freshness of fruit. "It's not just the acidity" he says, "but the fruit as well. With the malo you lose a little of that fresh fruitiness."
"In recent years, Arnaud Margaine has focused heavily on improving quality in the vineyards, eliminating chemical herbicides and increasing the amount of cover crop in the vines. Today about 70 percent of his 6.5 hectares of vineyards are planted with various cover crops, with the aim of eventually reaching 100 percent. While Margaine hasn't noted a tremendous difference yet in the quality of the wines, he believes that this will emerge in time, as he notices roots descending deeper into the soil and vine leaves appearing greener overall. Average vine-age is relatively old at this estate, about 32 years."
-Peter Liem, Champagneguide.net
The vintage Blanc de Blancs [the "Spécial Club" bottling] from this grower based in the little-known village of Villers-Marmery at the far eastern end of the Montagne de Reims is refined, incisive, and vinous, built on understated lemon fruit, and acquiring tantalizing walnut-butter notes with time.
-Andrew Jefford, The New France