Wine Spectator 95 WS TOP 100 Wines of The Year 2023 Rank #5
Mastroberardino, founded in 1878, is a protagonist in the story of fine wine from Campania in Southern Italy and of the regions signature red, Taurasi, based on the Aglianico grape. Tenth-generation vintner Piero Mastroberardino helms the estate, working with winemaker Massimo di Renzo. Starting 20 years ago, the duo pursued a more robust style for their Taurasi, shifting gears again with the 2016 Radici Riserva to the winemaking of my father, says Mastroberardino. The focus here is on less extraction, with a relatively short, cool maceration of eight or nine days, followed by extended aging, including 30 months in large casks or used barriques and an additional three or more years in bottle. A focused and fragrant red, leading with hints of pencil shavings, violet, tobacco and citrus that accent flavors of blackberry and black cherry fruit. This is refined and supple, fresh with lively acidity, but also shows weight and concentration, with sculpted tannins emerging on the mineral- and spice-laced finish. Drink now through 2036.~A.N.

Vinous Media 96
A rich and darkly inviting blend of plum sauce, clove, cocoa and camphor makes the 2016 Taurasi Riserva Radici impossible to ignore. This is pure class, pliant and enveloping on the palate, with silken waves of ripe red and black fruit guided by brisk acidity. Citrus and inner herbal tones add tremendous depth. The 2016s regal tannins come forward through the close, framing the experience with youthful poise without slowing its momentum, leaving chalky mineral tones and nuances of nectarine to linger. The balance here is something to behold. Bury this beauty deep in the cellar.~E.G.

James Suckling 96
This is super silky and elegant aglianico with a deep and dense core of ripe red and black fruit. Full-bodied with beautifully embedded, fine-grained tannins and a long, controlled finish. Just a little pull on the mouth right at the end, so probably best to give it another year or two, if you can resist. Best from 2024.~J.S.