Wine Advocate 91
"While marginally higher in residual sugar on paper than this year’s “Soil to Soul” cuvee, the Strubs’ 2011 Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett tastes less sweet thanks to site-typical relatively high acidity as well as pronouncedly fruit skin chew; nut oil and subtly cyanic fruit pit piquancy; and mouthwatering, scallop-like salinity and savor. There is a hint of textural creaminess but delightful levity as well as succulent, formidably persistent juiciness of fresh plum and cherry. This sensational value should remain delightful for at least the next 12-15 years."
The Strub family has been making wine in Germany's Rheinhessen region since 1710. When Walter Strub assumed proprietorship of the estate in 1985, he became the 11th generation of his family to produce fine Riesling wines of international repute from their vineyards around Nierstein.
Born into a winemaking family, Walter Strub spent his childhood in and around the vineyards. After two apprenticeships at other estates in Baden and Rheinhessen, Walter went on to receive his degree in oenology from Germany's famous viticultural institute in Geisenheim. Immediately after graduation in 1976, he returned to the family estate. Walter also spent time at the Simi winery in Napa Valley, California to expand his winemaking experience.
Walter and his wife Margit run the winery as a team, involving their young children in the process as well. Sebastian and Johannes are already helping their father in the vineyards, and Juliane especially enjoys it when she is allowed to taste the great wine her daddy makes.
These are pleasure-giving wines that are easy to “read” and understand. They taste like Saar or Nahe wines superimposed over the soils of Nierstein. They’re very often reductive and spritzy, complex and long. " ~ Winery notes
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In a region most recently known for high-yielding, innocuous varieties like Sylvaner and Müller-Thurgau that have tainted the reputation of German wine as a whole, Walter Strub and his son Sebastian are crafting transparent, pure expressions of Riesling on slopes along the Rhine River in Nierstein. The Strub family has been making wine in Germany's Rheinhessen region since 1710, Walter Strub is the 11th generation of his family to produce fine Riesling of international repute from the family vineyards.
In Nierstein, production of quality, vineyard-designate wines sits at less than 20%. The best vineyards in Nierstein, and arguably all of the Rheinhessen, lie on a steep south and southeast facing slope along the Rhine River called the Roter Hang (Red Slope), whose Rotliegenden soil produces some of the most terroir specific wines in all of Germany. Rotliegenden soils here are a composition of Permian red sandstone & slate, dating back some 280 million years. A unique set of Grand Cru vineyards here include the Oelberg, Orbel, and Pettenthal, along with a limestone rich vineyard called Brückchen located across the village from the steep red slope. The Strubs generally vinify fruit from the red slope dry, due to the pronounced minerality; while more often producing wines from the Paterberg and Brückchen in a fruity style due to the limestone soils and higher levels of acidity.
Sebastian Strub, fresh from graduating Geisenheim and an apprenticeship at Dönnhoff, has begun making his mark on the winery, bringing the wines into sleek focus. Sebastian has introduced a small filtration to control oxidation, eliminated süssreserve (balance, he believes, is best achieved through blending), and accelerated fermentations, preferring a faster, warmer 'cleaning' of the must. Additionally, Sebastian has placed more focus on the family's vineyard work, including the use of straw coverings between rows to prevent erosion and aid in water retention – a technique he learned while working at Dönnhoff.
Vineyard area: 15 hectares
Annual production: 7,500 cases
Nierstein – Orbel, Ölberg (red slate and sandstone)
Hipping, Pettenthal (red slate and sandstone)
Rosenberg (red slate and sandstone)
Paterberg (clay and limestone)
Brückchen (clay and limestone)