Joh. Jos. Prum

From Johann Josef to Sebastian to Manfred--and now, to Katharina--the hereditary line of Prüms at this estate is straight and strong. Why is J.J. Prüm still the most famous name in German wine after a hundred years? Partly because their light and racy wines epitomize the region, partly because they possess several incredible vineyard sites and an extraordinary percentage of ungrafted vines within them, which links them to an historic era of German winegrowing... and honestly, it's partly showbiz. Few humans alive have ever seen the cellar at J.J. Prüm, or Manfred's mysterious brother Wolfgang who toils down there. The mystery is compounded at the epic dinners that Manfred and his daughter Katharina host for visitors, during which Manfred disappears for up to 20 minutes rummaging around for the "perfect" bottle to pour, which is invariably old and invariably served blind. Who can resist such a presentation?

The 33.5 acre estate produces about 13,000 cases annually. The wines are feather-light, never over-extracted, low in alcohol, transparent as glass, and petrolly as hell in those first 15 years or so; after that, they really get going. Prüm is not tiny, they're not a thousand years old, and they're not doctrinaire about vinification; they are simply the quintessential Mosel estate and the benchmark for all German wine. Amen.

The vineyards:

Wehlener Sonnenuhr (directly across the river from the house): pure, weathered Devon slate; quite stony. This is often considered Prüm's premier site, and the wines from here are the longest lived.

Graacher Himmelreich: very deep soils (great water maintenance); weathered Devon slate with higher clay content and pockets of blue slate. Wines are usually approachable sooner than Sonnenuhr.

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr: Prüm owns the filet parcel here, adjacent to Wehlener Sonnenuhr. Delicate wines; insiders' choice.

Bernkasteler Badstube: "Our Saar vineyard," the Prüms call it.; weathered Devon slate, with blue slate and traces of loam. Salty, subtle wines.

A bit of history about JJPrum: www.pruemwein.de

The producers website: www.jjpruem.com

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Joh. Jos. Prum 2015 Graccher Himmelreich Spatlese
92  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 92"A racy, tensile version whose peach, apple, and lime flavors are stretched tight along its axis. Delicate, vibrant, and mouthwatering on the long finish. Drink now through 2028." ~ BS

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2007 1.5L
94  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 94"Pungent aromas of slate and flowers give way to peach and lime in this unevolved Riesling. The texture is supersilky, with great harmony among all the elements. Terrific length. Needs time. Best from 2014 through 2040"

Joh. Jos. Prum Sonnenuhr Gold Wehlener Sonnen Ausl 2003
95  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 95"Very clean and focused, with an intensity that belies its delicate profile. Wonderful aromas and flavors of apricot, flowers and slate, with pinpoint balance and a long, almost salty aftertaste. Deceptive and completely disarming in its appeal. Drink now through 2030."

Joh. Jos. Prum Kabinett Riesling Kabinett 2005
"The wines of J.J. Prum estate founded in 1911 are famous for their longevity, long lasting youth and freshness. The estate's vineyards in the Mosel valley planted with 100 % Riesling, mostly ungrafted and relatively old vines are situated around the 50th latitude, i.e. in one of the most northern

JJ Prum Wehlener Sonn 2007 Riesling Kabinett 2007
92  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 92 "Floral and smoke aromas give way to peach, apple and lime flavors in this delicate, silky Riesling. All is well-integrated with the bright structure and lingers lazily on the long, mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2024." ~BS  Joh Jos Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett


Joh. Jos. Prum Beerenauslese Bernkasteler Badstube 2006 375
95  Wine Spectator 
**HALF BOTTLE**Wine Spectator 95"Concentrated and pure, this boasts apricot, peach, lime sorbet and honey flavors wrapped in a velvety texture. Lush and elegant at the same time, with a mouthcoating presence and a long finish. Drink now through 2040. 200 cases made."

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelriech Auslese 2006
95  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 95"Aromas of rose, slate and smoke segue into lime and peach flavors in this elegant, stately white. It's crisp and trans-parent, with precise balance and a classic Mosel profile. Long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2035."

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2006
93  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 93"Aromatic, offering smoke, slate, peach and floral aromas and picking up a lime accent on the palate. Lighter than air, with a silky texture and a long, tangy aftertaste. There's a nice combination of intensity and delicacy. Drink now through 2030. 1,500 cases made."

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese 2006
93  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 93"Reduced in aroma, this needs air, yet the purity and silky texture are beautiful. Apricot, lime, slate and vanilla pastry flavors weave throughout the plump frame. Shows lovely balance and length." 4/30/08

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelriech Spatlese 2006
90  Stephen Tanzer 
Stephen Tanzer 90 "Pale, green-tinged yellow. Fresh bouquet of bosc pear, white cherry and apple blossom. Delicately sweet on the palate, offering a nice interplay of apricot and luscious citricity. Although unusually rich for a spatlese from this estate, the long finish offers lipsmacking

Joh. Jos. Prum Auslese Riesling Graacher 2004
94  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 94 "The nose is marked by SO2 now, but this is positively crunchy on the palate. The vibrant structure and clarity set the tone for its peach, citrus and mineral notes. Its refreshing and alive, with a mouthwatering finish. This needs time. Best from 2009 through 2030. (B.S.)"  

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese 2004
92  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 92"Reduced aromas overall, this is unevolved and angular now. It's rich and intense, with bracing acidity that leaves a tart impression. Be patient, this is a baby that needs plenty of time. Best from 2008 through 2025. 2,000 cases made. BS"

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Gold Himmelriech Riesling Aus 2006
95  Wine Spectator 
JJ Prum Graacher Himmelrich Riesling Ausele Gold Kap 2006 Wine Spectator 95 "A kaleidoscope of orchard fruit, with a squeeze of lime served on a wet slate platter. Delicate and fresh, yet concentrated, with a silky, see-through texture. Has great length, with a tangy aftertaste. Drink now through

Joh. Jos. Prum Auslese Riesling Graacher 2003
94  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 94"Terrific auslese. Pure, vibrant and elegant, with a panoply of peach, lime and slate aromas and flavors matched to a seamless frame. Lovely aftertaste of baked apple and vanilla. Drink now through 2025. (BS)"

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener GOLD Sonnenuhr Riesling 2006 375ml
93  Wine Spectator 
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnuneur Riesling Auslese Gold Kap 2006 375ml (half bottles) Wine Spectator 93 "A delicious auslese, revealing a fleeting range of lime, slate and spice flavors allied to a gossamer texture. Built on a light-weight frame, this layers itself seamlessly to a lime-tinged

Joh. Jos. Prum Kabinett Riesling Kabinett 2007
91  Wine Spectator 
Wine Spectator 91"The floral, peach and chive aromas and flavors need some coaxing to emerge in this lacy, delicate Riesling. Balanced and long. Best now through 2024." ~BS